Using Hot Mud Joint Compound. The “Miracle Mud”
Posted: Tuesday, February 12, 2008
by Edwin Brown
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com
Hot Mud, also known as fast set joint compound, or chemically hardening joint compound, is a terrific product for the plaster repair person. And, it works equally well for drywall finishing.
It is so versatile, and has so many uses, that I call it my "miracle mud."
That said, it also has some limitations, the principal one being that you have a limited amount of time to use it up before it starts to harden. So ... it takes some getting used to, but once you are familiar with how it behaves, you too will discover what a marvelous product it is.
Because longer setting times are readily available, a newcomer to using quick set compound can opt for the 40 or 90 minute bags, so he is not quite so pressed for time. It is always a good idea to make smaller batches. You don't want to have to throw partial batches out because your stuff is hardening before you can use it up.
Here's how you mix it. For small projects, I use a small mud pan. When I am doing plaster patching or a small taping job on drywall, I often make a small batch of 40 or 20 minute mud, mixing it right in the mud pan I will be working out of. For my brand of mud, I usually figure that I will get a volume of mud of the right working consistency of about twice the volume of the water I am putting the powder into. With a small pan, when full, I have about a quart of material.
I fill my mud pan about 40 percent full of water, slowly adding the powder and stirring it up with my 4 or 6 inch taping knife. I can usually get the lumps smoothed out before I am ready to use the mud. Mixing a small batch like this takes me about 2 or 3 minutes. I try not to stir the mud more than absolutely necessary, because too much stirring will cause the setting time of your batch to shorten. Now, 20 minute mud becomes 15 or 10 minute mud.
This is also why it is not a good idea to use an electric mixer for mixing larger batches of hot mud. You can cut the working time by as much as half or more.
Why is hot mud so great? First, it can be a huge time saver. You can do one operation, then a few minutes later, after it is hard, go right back over it with the second step in the plaster repair or taping project. Without the setting time feature, you would have to wait 12 to 24 hours for things to dry before you can continue.
Because hot mud contains glue (like all taping and regular all purpose joint compounds), you can use it to glue backing materials in place for filling in holes in plaster or drywall. Hot mud is great for filling gaps and small holes that regular compound can't handle (because it shrinks too much). Once it hardens, fast set mud quits shrinking. You can tape with it, top coat with it, even texture with it - provided you can work within the time restrictions.
Some varieties of quick set compound are harder to sand than others, so I often top my work with regular joint compound.
One caution: every time you finish using a batch of this stuff, you have to thoroughly clean all the tools you used, as well as the mud pans, buckets, etc. Otherwise, the debris left behind on your tools and container will cause the next batch to go off quicker, reducing your working time.
A great clean tool is those orange plastic scouring pads called Mister Tuffy.
And last of all, you must mix your batches in CLEAN water. Again, to allow you to have full working time.
Now, go do some miracles.
Edwin Brown has been serving clients for over 35 years on the west coast of the US, as a specialist in the field of plaster and drywall repair and renovation. To subscribe to his free email plaster repair course, HOW TO REPAIR YOUR PLASTER RIGHT, go to his webpage.
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Top-level comments on this article: (5 total)Can you use Hot Mud without taping the joints when applying to green board? If you are taping would mesh or paper be the best?No, I never try to get around taping the joints (with hot mud or anything else) on any kind of board. And I always use paper. It is much more reliable than mesh tape.Mesh tape is great for some things, but it is not good as a standalone tape for drywall joints, or for that matter most plaster repair situations. I have made lots of money repairing drywall joints originally taped with mesh.This is a hot topic, and you will get other contrary opinions about mesh versus paper, but with 40 years of experience in the field, I am unlikely to change my tune.
I will be having my attic dry-walled - about 40 sheets of 1/2"x4'x12'. I got several quotes. One contractor said he prefered not to use quick-set mud because it is weaker than regular mud even though it is more convenient and faster drying.Is this true?On another note. The contractor also stated that horizontal joints tend not to crack as much as over time as vertical joints. Is this also true? Thank you for any help.Weaker? Not in my experience. You need to mix it to the right consistency for easy working, but not too thin, else it would be weak - like any mud would be.
Overall, it is probably true that the horizontal joints are less crack prone than the vertical ones. That is because the long edges of drywall board are rolled down a little, so when you put two sheets side by side, you have a long depression for your mud and tape. With two coats of mud on top of the tape, you will have a little thicker layer of material over the tape than is the case for the vertical joints. So, all things being equal, thicker mud over the tape equals less potential for cracking.
I need to patch up a RCC hume pipe in India Mumbai which has been punctured during the water borewell drilling works. The water from the pipe is coming non stoppable. I would be thankfull if you can help me with the solution for the same with hot mud or any other option. Thanks for any help you can provide. Is HOT MUD available in Mumbai INIDA
Hi! I need to apply something between my shower wall and the sheet rock above it. The gap is about 1 to 1 1/4 inch. The depth is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch. I need to fill that gap so is hot mud the best way to go and how do I apply it smoothly? Do you have any demonstration videos?Usually, a narrow piece of drywall fitted into the gap, then taped and topcoated is the best approach.
The tricky part is to cut the sheetrock to size and not break it. This means repeated scoring with the sharp knife until the rock is cut clear through. If half inch rock is too thick, you might have to go with three-eighths.
As an alternative, you could cut a piece of thin plywood for fitting into the gap, but be sure to put a primer on the wood first and let it dry overnight, otherwise your drywall mud will not stick to it very well. Then, do your taping and topcoating just as if you were using drywall. In both cases, regular drywall compound will suffice, no need for hot mud.
Can you put hot mud over panel sheets?
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